Chasing the Sun: Summer Solstice at Stonehenge

Published on 19 July 2025 at 19:03

If you know me, you’ll know I love history, culture, sunrises and good vibes. A few weeks ago, I was fortunate enough to tick off one of my biggest bucket list items – to see the summer solstice at Stonehenge.  
For thousands of years, people have gathered at this ancient monument to celebrate the longest day of the year. This year, I joined the 25,000-strong crowd to see the sun rise behind the stones, and it was nothing short of magical. 

When is a Henge Not a Henge?  And what is Stonehenge?

Stonehenge is one of the most famous landmarks that the UK has to offer, with a worldwide reputation as being a bit of a mystery, and a not-so-worldwide reputation of being the 8th wonder of the world (because that part is just my opinion!).  

I’m a huge history fanatic, but I’m no expert, so I’ll keep things simple. We all know Stonehenge is basically a circle of big ole rocks, right? But that alone doesn’t explain why thousands of people flock there every year to have a closer look, and have done for thousands of years. I mean, surely they’re not all getting their rocks off* over some big, bountiful boulders… are they? 

Located on the Salisbury Plains in Wiltshire, this stone circle was first erected around 5000 years ago and underwent 800+ years of constant changes, developments, and remodelling. The stones are placed to align with the trajectory of the sun, specifically on the solstices; imagine** standing in the centre of the stone circle on the morning of the summer solstice and looking out to the North-East, you would witness the sun appear from behind the Heel stone. Turn 180 degrees and you’re looking directly at the point where the sun sets on the winter solstice! 

The sun getting ready to rise above the Stones at Stonehenge.

*Sorry!

** I say ‘imagine’ as it would be extremely difficult to achieve considering the tens of thousands of visitors that flock to the stones to witness this exact thing

It’s an age-old debate as to why the stones were erected in such a way, and theories vary from it acting as a neolithic calendar, a druid temple, a venue for religious or spiritual ceremonies, or a fancy burial site. The truth is, it’s acted as all of these things over the thousands of years it’s existed.  

By definition, a henge is a Neolithic circular or oval structure built into the earth to enclose some kind of monument. It consists of a raised outer ring (known as a bank) and a dug-out ring on the inside (known as a ditch). Ironically, the word ‘henge’ was derived from the name Stonehenge, but Stonehenge is not actually a true henge. This is because its ditch is on the outside of the bank!  

So Why Do People Go There?  

We know that thousands of people visit Stonehenge throughout the year to see one of history’s biggest mysteries with their own eyes. In 2024, it’s thought that about 1.4 million people visited the site throughout the year, but on the night of the 2025 Summer solstice alone, there was 25,000 people in attendance. These people are from all walks of life; Pagans, Druids, Hare Krishnas, hippies, stoners, free spirits, history lovers, tourists and many more.  
The reasons that people visit this monument on the Solstice are even more diverse. Some want to connect with their ancestors, some want to connect with like-minded people, some want to relive history, some are ticking it off their bucket lists, some are making a pilgrimage, some are there to feel the stones' energy, some are there for the gnarliest drug trip of their lives and some simply want to experience the vibes. 

A Journey Worth the Wait

My adventure began with a five-hour drive to Salisbury (it should have taken just 3 hours, but the traffic was a nightmare), where I grabbed myself a takeout pizza before meeting up with my friends (Pizza Hut had an offer of any size pizza for £9.99 so of course I went for large with the intention of sharing... spoiler alert, I did not share, and I saved some for breakfast the next morning). You know you're nearing the general area when every verge and layby is plastered with no parking signs and traffic cones—some grass verges even had signs that threatened towing, though that didn’t stop a few bold visitors. I’d imagine that locals have to put their lives on hold for a few days on the run up and during the aftermath of the solstice due to the traffic and diverted roads. 

From the Waitrose at Salisbury (our meeting point), we convoyed toward Stonehenge. A journey that should’ve taken 20 minutes stretched into an excruciating three-hour crawl due to diversions and road closures. We knew there would be queues but as the car park only opens at 7pm, we didn’t see much point in going any earlier- I'm still not sure whether that was a wise decision or not. I was so glad I decided to pick up that pizza on the way because I was STARVING. It was also sweltering, so I was lucky I’d packed enough spare drinks. As time stretched on, I was losing hope that we would make it to Stonehenge in time for the sunset at 9:26pm. 

At least I got a good view of the Sunset from my car window!

We crawled along the dual carriageway where people were pulling onto the verges to park – to be fair, there weren’t any no parking signs here because organisers probably didn’t expect people to park along a dual carriageway- and made our way through the town. I ended up watching the sunset from my car window with a lovely view across the fields.  

Arrival and Entry

We finally reached the car park at Stonehenge Visitors Centre at 9:45pm where we were directed to park by event marshals. It was perfect that we convoyed directly behind one another so that I could ask to park directly behind my friend’s van so that we weren't separated. The vehicles that had arrived first got prime parking nearer the entrance to the field, but it appeared that cars and vans were initially segregated from each other, cars on one side of the field and vans and motorhomes on the other. I’m not sure when that idea was given up on, as it was a free-for-all by the time we were parking, but I was thankful for being able to be near my friends! We were actually directly next to an access lane/walkway, which also had its pros and cons.  

The car park costs £20, no matter what vehicle you have, which lasted until noon the next day, payable via PayByPhone (pro tip: I’d read online to download the app in advance, as signal is patchy, and this served me well as I had no trouble paying). After putting together a bag of supplies each (bottles of water, cans of pop, a picnic blanket, some small snacks and a jumper each), we began the 25-minute walk to the stones. It’s a relatively straightforward path to the field, which is lit up sporadically by floodlights, but it does get quite dark at points, so I’m glad I brought my torch.  

Inside the Field 

Once you reach the designated field, you have to make your way through the security barriers – almost like a concert – and your bag gets searched (kind of) to make sure that you’re not bringing in any contraband. It only took me and my two friends a matter of minutes to queue and get security cleared, but I had other friends who arrived much earlier, and it took them upwards of 45 minutes to get through security. There are restrictions to what you can take into the field itself; no alcohol, no glass, no fires, no dogs (except assistance dogs), and bags must be under 25cm x 30cm x 15cm. I would implore everyone to read the Conditions of Entry on the English Heritage website (Conditions of entry 2024 | English Heritage) before you visit. There was a small group of men in front of me and when asked ‘does your bag contain any alcohol?’ by security they said yes. I’m sure if they’d have said no, they’d have gotten away with it. I’m not condoning this behaviour by any stretch of the imagination, but there will always be people breaking the rules. More on this later! 

The stones were lit up in an ethereal blue light. 

Food, Festivities & Felonious Behaviour 

Right after the security barrier, there were multiple food trucks, a merchandise tent (see what I mean about it feeling like a concert?), a gazebo with emergency personnel, some taps for refilling water bottles and a long line of portaloos.  
It was such a great line up of food stalls that I almost forgot the main attraction. There was everything you could dream of including crepes, burgers, pizza and even cheese on toast! I didn’t personally partake in any of the food stalls. Not only were the queues huge, but the prices were too... and I had just eaten the majority of a large pizza to myself.  

The whole area was lit up by these eerie blue floodlights, emitting just enough light to illuminate Stonehenge. Even without these lights, you wouldn’t need to query where to find it; just follow the drumming, chanting and singing that continued throughout the night. 
I’ve heard the phrase ‘electric’ used to describe the atmosphere of a place or event, but this is an understatement for Stonehenge. There’s truly no way to describe the experience- the way the sounds echo amongst the stones, people gathering together in celebration, chanting and spreading positivity amongst friends and strangers alike. There’s such a communal feel to it, like you’re seeing the most fruitful depths of what humanity has to offer. It makes you realise that there is no real divide between us all, we are all creative, loving, emotional, complex that almost makes you proud to be human... 

That being said, I witnessed some things that could have put a dampener on some people’s evenings. Now cast your mind back to those rules I explained earlier. I saw people with sleeping bags, big picnics with glass bottles of prosecco and beer, people burning Palo Santo wood, incense and other herbs (we all know which ones I mean), people were selling sky lanterns and releasing them (which was quickly stopped by the police officers present), and I even saw a few pop up tents despite the rules saying strictly no camping or sleeping in the field. Tents were banned even in the car park, but it was advised that you could sleep in your vehicle if you needed to- which I did. I do think the security could have been stricter with what people were able to bring into the field itself, but it also felt a bit overkill for a spiritual event and I’m not aware of any damage that was done, other than people climbing on the sacred stones, and no doubt there was a big litter pick operation required the next afternoon.  

My home for the night consisted of car camping with a LIDL car air mattress and fairy lights!

I Can't Pull an 'All Nighter' 

After a few hours spent soaking up the atmosphere at the stones, watching the wide array of people enjoying themselves, we decided to head back to our vehicles for a few hours of shut eye before making our way back to the stones for the main event – sunrise!  
 
To make my car more comfortable for a good night's sleep, I’d purchased a car air mattress from LIDL for £14.99 that slots into the back seat and footwell (you can watch my TikTok about this product here). I also hung fairy lights in the back to make it feel cosy. For privacy, I made window covers out of some cheap car sun shades. They’re not perfect but they do the job to keep prying eyes from seeing in.  
As I was parked right next to the access track, there was a lot of foot traffic from people walking from the car park, past my car and to the Stonehenge field and vice versa. This continued throughout the night as people came back and forth, chatting and laughing but I managed to sleep surprisingly well – perhaps due to the 8 hours of driving, it had been a long day.  

At 3:30am, we made our way back to the stones. Sunrise was scheduled for 4:51am, but we wanted to ensure we had ample time to walk to the field, get through security (again) and get a decent viewing spot. All went well, but it was bloody busy! We managed to get a good spot, only partially obstructed by a 6-odd foot man in front of us and his tiny wife who did nothing but flail a camera in the air, pointed vaguely in the direction of the sunrise.  

Sunrise and Selfie Sticks

At 3:30am, we made our way back to the stones. Sunrise was scheduled for 4:51am, but we wanted to ensure we had ample time to walk to the field, get through security (again) and get a decent viewing spot. All went well, but it was bloody busy! We managed to get a good spot, only partially obstructed by a 6-odd foot man in front of us and his tiny wife who did nothing but flail a camera in the air, pointed vaguely in the direction of the sunrise.  

That’s one thing I will say about the experience- I tried hard to stand there and imagine doing the exact same as my ancestors from hundreds or even thousands of years ago, but it was difficult to disconnect from all the technology. Long selfie sticks towered above our heads and arms were raised skywards, hands wielding cameras and phones, documenting everything. One man was crashing out about how the internet would be the ‘end’ of humanity, and looking at the crowd around me, I could somewhat sympathise with him, but he was a bit of a vibe killer. I tried to stay present, obviously snapping a few photos and videos (how could you not?), but my phone remained in my pocket for the majority of the time so that I could live in the moment and experience it first-hand. 

After the sun rose into the sky, the crowd began to disperse. My friends and I decided to have another wander around the stones, and we sat people-watching for a good while. The drumming and chanting continued within the stones while there were other gatherings of people outside the stones playing their own music and dancing.  

All hail the selfie stick - I could not escape modern technology at this ancient celebration. 

We got back to the vehicles at 6:20am and decided that a few more hours of shut eye were needed before attempting to leave and drive home. I made myself a coffee, tucked myself back into bed, polished off the last slices of my pizza and nodded off. I woke up to an eerie silence and wondered if I’d somehow overslept. I needn’t have panicked though, as it was only an hour later, and the vehicles attempting to make their way off the site were at a standstill. Knowing I had plenty of time to kill, I had a few more hours of kip before preparing to leave.  
As I packed up my car and psyched myself up for the journey home, I noticed that someone had taken the liberty to relieve their bladder up the back of my car.  Remember when I said it ‘almost makes you proud to be human...’? Well, this was the reason for my ‘almost’. I get that when nature calls you must go, but you don’t have to go on my paintwork!  
By 11:20am, security was prompting people to leave the car park, which officially closes at noon. I breezed across the field to the exit at 11:30am, with no queues in sight! 

Practical Tips & Reflections 

All in all, watching the solstice sunrise at Stonehenge was a magnificent experience and I would definitely recommend it to anyone that loves culture, history or folklore.

Make sure you come prepared, plan your route, psyche yourself up for a long journey, download the parking app before you travel, read the ‘Conditions of Entry’ and pack more food and drink than you think you’ll need... oh and don't forget your torch!   

Pros of Visiting for Solstice: 

  • Free entry and rare access to the stones 
  • An unforgettable atmosphere 
  • A chance to be part of an ancient tradition 
  • A stronger connection with nature and humans 

Cons: 

  • Heavy traffic and long queues (bring snacks and patience) 
  • No camping (though car sleeping is allowed) 
  • Patchy phone signal, pricey food, and people with weak bladders and weaker manners 

Stonehenge at solstice is not just a bucket list item—it’s a rite of passage. It’s messy, magical, and utterly unforgettable. Whether you’re there to honour ancient traditions, dance until dawn, or just say you’ve done it, you’ll leave with stories to tell and a little more sun in your soul. 

 

Until next time, 

Beck x   

As you can see, I had a great time. 

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Comments

Liza E
11 days ago

Thank you for such an insight into visiting Stonehenge for the Summer Solstice. Very informative and you gave some really good tips to make the trip easier to navigate.
Thanks for sharing Beck. 👍🌄